Stars, mafia and brave…

We liked Palermo and stayed there for a week. And after that one week more.

Palermo was founded by the Phoenicians over 2.700 years ago. They called it Zys. It is believed to have meant flower. The Greeks called it Panormos. It meant 'protected harbor'. The arabs translated this to Belmar , which the Normans translated into Balarmus. In contemporary Italian, Balarmus was translated to Palermo.

Five stars

And the harbor was really well protected.

No swells or howling winds to disturb the night's sleep. Security was good. The area video-surveilled. The entrance staffed around the clock. The sanitary facilities were modest. Yes in fact they consisted of only a toilet with a bathroom. But it was neat and clean. The water in the outlets on the two bridges was classified as drinking water. It was a five minute walk to the old town. A few minutes further away was a large supermarket. Here all groceries could be provisionen. They could also be brought all down to the boat if requested. Not far from the supermarket was a laundry where you could wash clothes at a reasonable price. There were also a few of the high prices laundries. We avoided them. A few hundred meters away from the marina was a boat yard with all faciliities. Somewhat further away was a marine store with five busy clerks, a queuing system and a large warehouse in the back room. Some of the yachts were in the marina all year round. One advertised with Bed & Breakfast. Another with day trips. Guests docked on their way to Greece in the east or Gibraltar and the Atlantic Ocean in the west.

And then, of course, there was Benedetto or Ben, as he preferred to be called. The harbor master, who in the middle of the big city made one feel like you were in a cozy village as stated in one of the many five-star reviews of the marina Sitimar.

In the evening we strolled around the old town, where there was plenty of life, street food, restaurants and cafes with music provided by talented musicians. Almost every day we discovered a church, a square, sculptures, ornaments or facades we had not seen before. In the marketplaces, we heard the placeholders market their goods in the special Sicilian dialect, which Ben told was a mixture of Arabic and Italian. We spent an afternoon in the large and richly decorated cathedral. Also visited the opera house, where Michael Corleone's beautiful daughter in the film Godfather is murdered by a mistake on the stairs in a brutal showdown with the Corleone family.

Democracy and the Mafia

« We are one of the poorest regions in Europe. We should be one of the richest » said Ben, adding « We have the best oil in the world, the finest wines, fruits, cheeses, fish, sulfur, natural gas and a fantastic climate »

« Then why aren't you? » 

« Because in Sicily you only think of yourself » answered Ben.

« This is how it is everywhere else. This is where the state comes in. It must make sure that everyone is thought of » 

« Staten » snorted Ben « Those in parliament raise a high salary. It's the only thing that interests them»  

The parliament Ben was talking about was the Parliament of Sicily. It has legislative power and is one of the oldest in the world. Only the Icelandic Althing and the Faroese Lagting are older.

But it is not only Parliament that is old. The mafia also has a long history. It originated in the 1800th century when farmers began to own land. The police force in Sicily was virtually non-existent. Its tasks were left to the private initiative. This created the Sicilian mafia.

Some claim the mafia is hampering development in Sicily. Others that it is a symptom of centuries of tradition of a bizarre nepotism that is the breeding ground for crime and corruption.

The state has done much to fight the mafia. Throughout the 80s, there were almost civil war-like conditions in Palermo. The killings of Judges Falcone and Borsellino in the early 90s sparked a popular protest. People took to the streets protesting against the mafia. In the 1993 election, the progressive party La Rete received almost 75% of the votes. Parliament passed special laws aimed at fighting the mafia. Nearly 4.000 mafiosi were arrested. Undisclosed shares of the mafia's very large fortunes were confiscated. They were invested in the renovation of the historic buildings and the establishment of recreational areas.

Palermo once again became a city where you may walk safely after dark.

But the fight against the mafia is not over yet. Nearly 80% of Palermo businesses, according to Ben, pay pizzo (protection money). The mayor of Palermo is still living under police protection. Young people are having a hard time finding a job and the suburbs of Palermo are still plagued by poverty.

In 2015, Palermo's marina received the International Architecture Award. The following year, the Old Town became a UNESCO World Heritage Site and last year, Palermo was named Italy's Capital of Culture.

So it seems that Palermo and thus probably also Sicily is on the right track, albeit slowly.

Brave new world

The first couple of days it was cold in Palermo. But then suddenly one day the long wanted summer came. But you have to be careful about your wishes. Suddenly, we were moaning in the heat. When we were out, we were looking for the shady places just like everybody see. We replaced our duvets with thin sheets that kept us cooler at night.

It would be nice to be able to swim in the strong heat. But there are no beaches in Palermo. Yet. The nearest beach is called Mondello Beach. This is where you go when you want to swim.

There were a dozen mile out there. On Google Maps we found the bus connection to it. Packed our swimwear and walked the 5 minutes to the stop. The bus arrived on time. Was nice cool. Half empty and free. After a 20 minute drive we got off. Google Maps led us safely to the stop for the next bus that drove out to Mondello Beach. When we had waited a bit, a group of 5-6 girls came walking towards us. The bravest of them took courage and asked in good English.

« Sorry. Do you know if it is from here that the bus runs to Mondello? »

« Yes, I should think so » I replied and added  «We use what is called Google Maps. It's smart. There you can see where the bus is going and when. Do not know Google Maps? »

The girl did not answer the question.

«We have been waiting over an hour at the next stop. The bus did not arrive. Maybe it does not run at all today »  she said, slightly upset

«It's possible. But we give it a try and wait for it » 

So did the girls, who were German and came to Palermo late in the evening the previous day.

«Are you on a trip with the school? »

«No » replied another of the girls, adding with a slightly indulgent smile «We are studying at the university and are about to finish our bachelor's» 

When the bus was more than a quarter of an hour late, one of the girls suggested we take a taxi instead.

Great idea. But how do you find a taxi in a suburb of Palermo?

We started scouting for one.

«There's one in five minutes » exclaimed one of the girls

«Where in the world do you know that? ? »

«Just downloaded an app » replied the girl with her eyes fixed on the screen

«Can you also order a taxi with that app? »

«Yes and I have ordered one » she answered

«Fine. But we have to use two » 

«I ordered a large one » replied the girl, lifting her gaze from the screen

Five minutes later, a large white taxi drove into the stop. We all got into the nice cool car.

«Do you want to pay by card or app? » asked the driver.

«App» the girl replied tapping her screen as I closed Google Maps without either of the girls noticing.